June 2012

As the season continues to warm up, the shift in produce is becoming quite apparent during visits to the grocery store. There are a lot more varieties of fruit to choose from. And it’s actually ripe. Our neighboring towns to the west aren’t ready to harvest any stone fruits just yet, but that doesn’t mean we aren’t eagerly awaiting the first pickings. When I am working with fruit desserts there are two types of dairy products that I love to utilize as well: creme fraiche and mascarpone cheese. Creme fraiche is a tangy, thick cream. It’s similar to a Greek yogurt or sour cream, but there’s just something a bit more nutty to it’s flavor. It has two ingredients- heavy cream and buttermilk. Mascarpone cheese has a magnificent buttery flavor [...]

Oh, this is good. Lemon-scented brioche buns split, filled with luscious roasted strawberry ice cream, and topped with a generous dusting of powdered sugar. A new take on ‘strawberry shortcake’!? I think yes. I can’t believe I never thought of this before. Brioche is a French bread that almost tastes like it could be cake. The texture is incredibly tender with a tight crumb. As a professional pastry chef, I can say that this kind of dough is your ultimate secret weapon in the kitchen. It makes the best cinnamon rolls, fries up the best doughnuts, and is excellent for french toast and bread pudding. I was already smitten with brioche a long time ago, when we met in pastry school. But to sandwich creamy, frozen custard in between it? [...]

Growing up, each summer my mom would take us to the strawberry patch down the road. We would pick the juicy, red berries in the early morning sun and ride a tractor back to the farm, loaded with our bounty. I loved squatting between the rows of plants, squealing at the occasional toad, and tasting the sweet berries. Grocery store strawberries, even when they were picked in season off in South America or California, still have nothing on these berries. So unless I have top-of-their-prime strawberries to work with, I like to roast ’em instead. Especially for treats like ice cream. Roasting deepens the flavor of the strawberries, and even if I happen to get a bland-tasting pint from the store, I can still be assured of a flavorful ice [...]